To the general public, runway shows are often characterized as over-the-top, "who would actually wear that" explosions of trend-vomit donning the hairstyles of Whoville.
Those types of people haven't watched an Erin Fetherston show.
The runway at Fetherston's SS RTW 2016 gently guided the audience through a romantic dream. An array of blues, vermillion, olive, and cream presented in fluid fabrics felt familiar; reminiscent of that perfect summer day. Her pieces were predictable in the best way possible, with each look effortlessly flowing into the next. The show featured a variation of silhouettes—high collars, plunging necklines, maxi dresses, mini frocks—as well as equally oppositional fabrics—knits, denim and organza. Each model sported undone hair, fresh faces, and minimal sandals, reflecting Fetherston's simplicity.
Erin Fetherston's aesthetic reminds us of the timeless wearability of intelligent fashion. Smartly tailored silhouettes can speak volumes louder than trendy chaos.
Oh, did I mention that she graduated from UC Berkeley in 2002? Go Bears.
Watch the show in its entirety here.
It's a sunny, crystal clear, 75° Friday in the Bay Area , and, naturally, I am spending my afternoon basking in the live-streaming glory of New York Fashion Week. The hectic, colorful atmosphere and brisk temperatures of NYFW seem much more intriguing than yet another perfect California day–especially with the ability to be in virtual proximity to such amazing talent.
If you read my blog, you know that the 90s are kind of my jam. Thus, it should come at no surprise that my favorite show of the day originates from the brilliant mind of Mr. Wes Gordon. At the mere age of 28, Gordon has already established a trademark in his craft: timeless sophistication. If we were talking music, Gordon's designs would be a Paul McCartney in a room full of Iggy Azaleas and Aviciis. The guy just doesn't disappoint.
Wes Gordon's Fall 2015 show lived up to the high standards of his young career, with looks evocative of the Calvin Klein minimalism that made Kate Moss famous. In an interview with the Washington Post, Gordon hailed the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy as a major source of inspiration. The consistency of clean lines, exquisite tailoring, and even sensibly pulled-back hair played tribute to the fashion icon.
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| boss moss and cbk |
The most captivating aspect of Gordon's Fall 2015 RTW was the way he stayed true to the classic 90s aesthetic. He didn't add dramatic alterations or overwhelming silhouettes. In fact, within a black and gray palette of color, Gordon smartly balanced knits, furs, print, and translucent fabrics––quintessential 90s textiles–– with ease. Chunky turtlenecks, shirt dresses, spaghetti straps, pea coats, trench coats, even silk palazzo pants were all accounted for on that runway. Gordon didn't reinvent the wheel because he didn't need to. Good clothes are good clothes; it's that simple.
Prior to 1993, the fashion world was dominated and dictated by Europe. It was nearly impossible for any up-and-coming designer to break the mold–let alone an American. Thus came the birth of New York Fashion Week, which has served as the crucial platform for American designers to gain the global respect they so deserve. Since then, NYFW has become one of the most distinguished fashion weeks in the world, with designers from all over contending for a spot on the coveted runway. Until now.
Yesterday, notable American designer Zac Posen announced his departure from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center to pursue a show in a smaller venue. Posen is one of many designers (e.g. Michael Kors and Diane von Furstenberg) who have opted for shows outside the NYFW realm.
The reasons behind this shift are varied. Ever since NYFW left Bryant Park in 2010, prolific members of the fashion industry have been less than pleased with Lincoln Center. Bryant Park was ideal in the sense that it was a central location, in a large, open park. This layout enabled a dichotomous relationship between a private event in a public space. Bryant Park allowed for the people of New York to experience NYFW without actually stepping foot in the tents. Near the end of the Bryant Park Era, however, NYFW was simply outgrowing the park, and in need of a new location. Lincoln Center, with its weird, cramped layout and long corridors, has served as a satisfactory host. Furthermore, the rise of technology opens doors to new modes of showcasing collections, such as Alice Temperley's video installations which are not only more modern, but economically savvy.
At this point, time will tell if the "shows will go on". However, thanks to the seventeen years of NYFW, American designers have achieved the credibility to continue their careers the way they choose, technologically pioneered or not.
