NYFW Recap: Rodarte

Some fashion shows are no more than charming diversions; a fleeting event, enjoyable but as memorable as Paris Hilton's singing career. Others leave powerful imprints, forever haunting our lingering minds. Ten days ago, the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte exhibited their Fall/Winter 2016 collection at NYFW, and I can't stop thinking about it. 

Rodarte is no stranger to the fashion week conversation. In fact, over the past few seasons, their shows have led the colorful discussion (If you need a refresher see eyebrow-pierced-mermaid here). Last week's show set the bar higher than before. Uneven hems, voluminous ruffles, shaggy fur and floral appliqués served as reminders of the Mulleavy sisters' sheer prowess in the art of fashion.  Rodarte has an established style––a dark whimsicality curated through layered, mixed-media. Their hands are palpable within the essence of each piece. Everything they design is without equal.What amazes me is their ability to consistently shock the audience without changing this signature style. Their secret is in the subtlety. 

Each ensemble is slightly different than the one before: a sequined blouse changes from black to white, a leather belt becomes a choker. At first, the viewer watches comfortably. The opening pieces, while stunning, follow a familiar narrative. Then, the collection's metamorphosis gets into full-swing: gorilla-esque coats undergo color transformation, lace becomes fishnet, tule skirts evolve from pants to skirts to a gown, and orchids sprout from the models' hair.

At the shows end, I needed to immediately watch it again, to try and comprehend the artistry that unveiled before my computer screen.

And I couldn't. Because, that's the Rodarte magic. 

Mermaids Exist at Rodarte SS15

In preparation for New York Fashion Week, designers find inspiration from a wide array of sources. In recent years, popular collections have incorporated the revival of trends from decades past. The 70's seem to be a constant wealth of influence, as well as 80's neon and 90's grunge. I was beginning to worry that the fashions of my youth–the early 2000s–were next on the agenda. Nothing was worse than cropped polo tees, Juicy velour tracksuits, or Von Dutch trucker hats. Nothing. 

Luckily, the Mulleavy sisters saved us from yet another fashion resurrection. 

During the preparatory phases of their SS15 line, sisters (and Berkeley graduates) Kate and Laura Mulleavy of the renowned fashion house Rodarte, set their sights on a timeless, natural piece of inspiration: tide pools. As young girls growing up in Northern California, the Mulleavy sisters frequented the mesmerizing underwater tide pools of Monterey. Kate told Vogue.com, "We wanted to re-create the texture of those underwater tide pools... to explore this idea of underwater worlds, with all the movement and fluidity." By channeling a personal memory from their youth, Kate and Laura Mulleavy were able to achieve wizardry at NYFW. 

Tuesday's runway show was magical from the start. Spectators arrived to find the set a seaside reverie; the floor bejeweled with broken beach glass and Swarovski crystals. Once the show began, the venue finished it's transformation into an underwater realm. The models stunned in delicate dresses made of netting and tattered chiffon, like sirens on the shore. You could practically feel the ocean breeze as the ever-flowing ruffles on dresses, skirts, and scarfs danced down the catwalk. Opalescent sequins and scales added to the shipwreck vibe. 

The most remarkable facet of Rodarte's collection existed in it's ability to offset fluidity with rigid structure. Instead of allowing cascading fabrics overrun the runway, the Mulleavy sisters skillfully balanced things out with elements of sheer strength: thigh-high gladiator boots, skin-tight jeans, anorak jackets, and, of course, those incredible rows of sliver eyebrow piercings. 

Feast your eyes on the entire collection here. 

Amazing. All I can say is... Go Bears.