Jean Shrimpton Look-Alikes at Saint Laurent Fall 2014 RTW

As someone fervently passionate about history, music and fashion, I am a huge fan of Hedi Slimane, who has melded all three concepts into a full resurrection of acclaimed French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent. His first show last year was a modern twist on 90s Grunge, which included everything from beaded fish-nets to plaid school girl dresses. His attempt at a 90s revival was not received well by fashion critics, many of whom were appalled and baffled at his abrupt changes to the fashion house. One anonymous editor quoted by Eric Wilson in the Times even went so far to say “I feel like [Slimane] is playing a huge joke on the entire fashion industry”. 

However, the collection as a whole gained a great deal of attention in the public––even standing as the second most viewed collection on Style.com, behind Chanel. Prior to Slimane, YSL had difficulties getting into the top ten, let alone second. Furthermore, when the house’s former designer Stefano Pilari first took the reigns, the house was unable to make a “substantial profit” for six years. Slimane’s single collection, on the other hand, is selling in record numbers; so well in fact, that Bergdoff Goodman is in the process of creating separate departments for Saint Laurent. 

The shock value at the Saint Laurent Fall 2014 Ready To Wear show at Paris Fashion Week was undeniable.  As soon as the first models made way through the impressive golden archway and down the the runway, it was clear Slimane had yet another inspiration: Mods. The middle parts, bangs, leather boots, and glorious textures of velvet and sequins looked straight out of 1960s London. While a transport in time, the collection as a whole felt appropriate. Slimane's logic is clear and cohesive with his previous work: 60s Mod fashion is essentially a polished form of 90s Grunge. Courtney Love raccoon eyes transformed into Twiggy-esque crease liner and prominent bottom lashes. If one thing is for sure, Slimane has perfected menswear for women, as seen in the beautifully tailored blazers, high white colors, and flirtatious bow ties. After watching the show, I discovered my in-satiable need for fuchsia Mary Jane flats. 

Hedi Slimane has recreated YSL by breaking all the rules. His reformative ways thus far have been questionable, but effective––Saint Laurent regained its relevance and dominance in the fashion world. Some love him, others loathe him, but everyone can agree, Hedi Slimane isn’t going anywhere.  

See clips from the show here!

Grunge Resurrected

All decades have their own distinctive styles and trends that frequently recycle back into modern fashion. There was the boho 70s revival in the mid-2000s, followed by the re-mergence of 80s neon during the late-2000s. It was only a matter of time before 90s fashion would seep back into mainstream, and frankly, I couldn't be happier. As a girl who spent her high school nights watching reruns of Friends and My So Called Life,  the 90s continually flood me with nostalgia.

YSL's Fall 2013 

What intrigues me most about 90s fashion is its direct correlation to 90s music. Contrary to the produced, electronic, dance music of the 80s, the 90s were a time where people went back to their roots, generating a resurgence of organic alternative music. Although alternative music at this time prided itself on being "underground", the culture that surrounded it came to define the decade of fashion. Acts like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, and Soundgarden all played a crucial role in not only the creation, but the rapid and rampant spread of "Grunge".  Doc Martens, flannels, ripped garments, grimy hair, and a blatant apathy to the outside world characterized the typical 90s teen. I would also like to point out the irony behind the time, with teenagers dwelling during some of the most prosperous years of American history, choosing to clothe themselves as dirty and disheveled as possible. The counter-cultural tendencies and deep-rooted rebellion are obviously nothing surprising, but still an interesting detail.

By the turn of the century, Grunge was overthrown by low-riding denim skirts, flared jeans, and a plethora of belly shirts, only to be revived again by high fashion designers in 2013. Marc Jacobs and Hedi Slimane, the new creative director of once conservative Saint Laurent, have been at the forefront of this movement, with Fall and Spring runway looks fit for Winona Ryder and Courtney Love. In fact, after viewing Saint Laurent's Fall line, Love, via Twitter, expressed her delight over the idea of "rich ladies buying what we used to wear".

Of course, Grunge is not here to stay, and is destined for replacement yet again. However, for the time being, I am trying to embody Grunge fashion to the best of my ability, as the 90s teen I always yearned to be. Next on my shopping list: a plastic choker and a Tamagotchi.